KitchenAid KGRS807SSS 30-Inch Gas Range Review
KitchenAid plays it cool with the KGRS807SSS gas range.
The KitchenAid KGRS807SSS is a stainless steel, mid-level gas range (MSRP $2199.00) that's set apart by its "frameless cooktop" design. It will seamlessly blend with your countertops and other high-end appliances, but its cooking performance is far less refined. In fact, our test results read as a comedy of errors.
That doesn't mean there weren't moments of true brilliance: Oven temperature precision was spot on, and the broiler was great. But at times, this KitchenAid was a moustache and a French accent short of Inspector Clouseau.
Design & Usability
The KGRS807SSS’s design is suitably understated.
The KGRS807SSS follows the standard KitchenAid mid-range design language. Essentially, it’s a mid-level range wearing a stainless steel skin, and surprisingly, this works. It wears that stainless suit well, and should look good in any kitchen, regardless of your budget.
The KGRS807SSS features five gas burners, including one TripleTier burner which encases a simmer burner in a larger high-heat burner. This may appeal to you if you hate the idea of moving your pans from a high temperature to a simmer burner. But considering that the KGRS807SSS already comes equipped with two simmer burners, the TripleTier is best for highly specific use cases.
Burners aside, there's a lot to like about this KitchenAid’s control setup. The oven's control panel is a bit too busy for our tastes, but we appreciate that the controls are on a slight upward slope, allowing easy access, without forcing the user to bend over.
”Slow and steady wins the race” doesn't apply to rangetops.
The performance of this rangetop left us cold. Only one out of five burners boiled water in less than 10 minutes, while the remainder took anywhere between 10 and 30 minutes. Equally disappointing is the narrow temperature range of this stovetop. At low temperatures, the burners were fine for simmering soup, but couldn't get low enough to properly melt chocolate without a double boiler. And high temperatures were no match for a chef with the desire to sear a steak.
Oven, Broiler, & Convection
A bumbling thermostat makes for a kitchen farce
One thing is certain: you won’t find yourself humming a certain Cole Porter tune while using the KGRS807SSS. In fact in the case of the KGRS807SSS it’s often “too darn cold.” It's not that the oven is incapable of intense heat. Rather, it consistently undershot the temperatures we set it to.
The KGRS807SSS did cling to those inaccurate temperatures, however, never straying too far from its beliefs. We do admire its determination, and suggest it join the Flat Earth Society.
Fortunately, the convection setting drastically improved oven accuracy. Unfortunately, it came at the cost of precision. So what does that mean for you? Well, when using the KGRS807SSS, you will need to adjust the target temperature by a set amount every time to compensate for the poor calibration, or you can choose to prepare food that's either cold or unevenly cooked. Choose wisely.
Despite some frustrating performance issues, the KGRS807SSS had a couple of things going for it in the oven department. It's got an amazingly fast preheat, reaching the target temperature in less than eight minutes. True, it was not the correct target temperature, but credit where credit is due. Even the broiler performed admirably.
Amazing accuracy and great precision, just not simultaneously
Forget about the Clouseau comparison. If this oven were a character in a play, it would be a distinguished English colonel thrust into a drawing room comedy, complete with mistaken identity and double entendres.
Maddeningly inconsistent oven performance aside, the KitchenAid KGRS807SSS does have some commendable features. The control scheme is comprehensive and user friendly, and we are big fans of the range's understated elegance. Unfortunately, when it comes to the rangetop, the KGRS807SSS fails to deliver low lows and high highs.
If you are looking for a gas range that sits flush with your countertops, and you find a great deal, you could do worse than the KGRS807SSS. But we also recommend you check out the KitchenAid KGRS308BSS It won our coveted Best of Year award and our Editors' Choice award. It’s also $500 cheaper.
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