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- Amana AGG222VDW
- The Amana AGG222VDW attempts to fill a very small niche — both in the market for ranges, and in your kitchen.
Amana AGG222VDW 20-Inch Gas Range Review$549.00
The Amana AGG222VDW attempts to fill a very small niche — both in the market for ranges, and in your kitchen.
The Amana AGG222VDW (MSRP $569.00) is a no frills, freestanding gas range designed to appeal to urbanites with severe space limitations. Bare bones? Popular in cities? I smell a New York Times hipster trend piece coming up!
Much like the subjects of a Times writeup of Williamsburg's artisan DIY laundry detergent makers, this Amana seemed seemed overly laid back and determined to buck the norm. Old folks may grumble that it doesn't have much of a work ethic, with its narrow temperature profile and uneven heating. But we say it's a generational problem: small ranges like this aren't known for their performance, and the AGG222VDW is no exception.
Design & Usability
Ol' school is in session
There is nothing complicated about the controls on this range. Four dedicated dials control the burners, while a central dial controls the oven and broiler. Those expecting touch screens or at the very least button controls should look elsewhere—although to be fair, there is an Oven Light switch.
The slow food movement
If you plan on searing seitan or grass-fed beef, the AGG222VDW's rangetop has a very narrow band of temperatures that spans only 260ºF. The lowest temperature we recorded was 216ºF, so simmering is out of the question here.
Oven, Broiler, & Convection
Temperature regulation is way too mainstream anyway.
It seems the AGG222VDW feels the same way about temperature regulation, as all three oven settings we tested were woefully imprecise. And when they finally did settle on (inaccurate) temperatures, the mercury fell and rose. The broiler also proved underpowered, but at least that tiny oven cavity took a very short time to preheat.
Landlords liked this compact range before it was cool
It’s almost impossible to please everyone, and at the very least Amana has attempted to combine the convenience of a small range with the performance one expects from a (nearly) $600 appliance. As small, rented apartments increasingly become small, owned condos, the 20-inch range market is getting a bit more interest from homeowners who want a good oven, not just landlords who want a good deal.
Sadly, while the AGG222VDW should fit in even the tiniest kitchen, chances are it will find itself relegated to the sole job of reheating takeout. Despite a blisteringly fast preheat, almost all other aspects of the AGG22VDW’s performance proved subpar. Compared to other ranges around the same price point, this Amana may be the worst choice. Unfortunately, if you've got just a 20-inch opening for a range, it may be your only choice.